my first week in mbarara

01.03.2010 – 05.03.2010


On Monday, I had to make some further steps!
I started my journey to the South Western Part of Uganda. The district is called Mbarara, is about 300 kilometres away from Kampala (can be reached within five hours) and houses about 80.000 residents. Mbarara is the center of Ankole and its cattle with the abundant horns is characteristic for this region.

I had the possibility to go there with a colleague from the Technical Support Unit for Water Management. It was intended to start the travel at noon, finally we left Kampala, after picking-up some people and getting through the horrible traffic jam, at seven o’clock and we arrived one hour after midnight. In Africa the time is going another way… until now I get along with it pretty good.
However, I enjoyed the travel chatting and laughing with very nice people.



Next day in the morning, I have been picked-up for having breakfast and afterwards we moved to the office of the Water and Sanitation Development Facility (WSDF) under which I am going to do my research.



On Wednesday we have been going to the bordering district Bushenyi for visiting some villages. We have passed three villages which are also connected to the Facility.
By the time, I am trying to organize my field research. It is not so easy, because I do not know these villages and I would like to live with the locals for getting a deeper insight in their way of living. However, the project staff from the Facility is not really convinced that we can find a family where I can stay.
I joined my first meeting under the WSDF in the rural growth centre Kabira and I have been really surprised in what a respectful way they are communicating. And they are so willing to learn from each other and try to keep the project running in a good way. After the meeting we have had lunch and then we have been walking through the village to find out how the established Ecosan Toilets are working.




My first week in Mbarara has been very excited.
During daytime I have mostly been in the office, looking for village-related documents. But this research is not that easy because all documents are not well regulated. But people there, have been willing to assist my research.
I spent the evenings with very nice people, going out, having interesting conversations and even playing tennis. Unfortunately, I do not speak any local languages and that is the reason why I miss lots of important things they are talking about. It is interesting that people are always switching between the languages, in this case it has been Luganda and English. Absolutely, I want to learn a local language, but due to multiplicity of local languages, it is hard to choose one. Until now, I have started to learn a bit Luganda which is spoken mainly in Kampala and its surroundings. When I am back in Kampala for my internship I can continue with these studies.

On Friday, I went back to Kampala, because most of the people working in Mbarara go back to their homes in the villages or to Kampala. That’s why I also went back, because I did not want to stay here alone. And even this weekend has been longer, due to the International Women’s Day, which is a public holiday in Uganda.

my first week in kampala...

23.02.2010 - 28.02.2010

One week ago, I started my travel to Uganda - "The Pearl of Africa"

After a 24-hours journey from Vienna via Dubai and Addis Abeba I arrived in Entebbe. During the approach for the landing I have already been fascinated of the landscape and beauty of Uganda. I could not believe that this country is so green!

As I set foot on Ugandan soil I felt happy and secure and I enjoyed the African sun on my skin. After I passed visa control and claimed by baggage, I was on the way to watch out for my pick-up service. Henry has already been waiting for me. He is a very kind man from the surroundings of Kampala and he is the driver of the Austrian local office for development cooperation.
From Entebbe, situated nearby the Lake Victoria, we directly went to Kampala. The city is spread between and on seven hills. The first week I stayed in Kololo, one of the best regions to life in Kampala, with a beautiful view over the city!

The traffic is terrific. At rush hour in the morning and especially in the afternoon and the evening, it is common to stay one or two hours in traffic jams. This situation compounds in the last few years, because of a multiplication of people (doubling from the 1980ies until now from 15 to 30 million people – the population explosion is one of the main problems in Uganda) and consequently a multiplication of cars. Maybe the only solution will be the banishment of cars and the implementation of a comprehensive public transportation system. The most common way to go through Kampala for the locals is using the “Taxi”. There are lots of these Minibuses operating in the city as well as in whole country. (In Kenya they are called “Matatu”). Because of a lack of any inscriptions I am really sceptical, if I will eventually figure out, how this system is working. Due to this uncertainty I asked a friend for explanations, but he just meant “You will find out how it works”… we will see!
A more comfortable way to move around is the Boda Boda, the motorbike taxi. One advantage is to get easy through the traffic. A disadvantage is that the Boda Boda drivers often drive really risky trailing in-between the cars. But I am not scared and until now I have been lucky to go with moderate drivers.
All in all, the Ugandan car drivers are not driving too fast, but they fight for every free space to continue their journey.

The first day, I spend in the city with very lovely people. My first station has been Makarere University, where I had an appointment with Peter, Head of Sociology, concerning my field research. Until now it is not clear how the cooperation with an Ugandan student will develop.
At Makarere while waiting for Kazosi, a friend of Gabi, I got to know Jennifer, a very nice student. Her mother comes from the northern part of Uganda and her father from the central part. I spent an exciting afternoon with both of them, exploring the city, having good conversations as well as local food.

Friday was the first night, exploring the nightlife in Kampala. There are lots of smaller clubs and bars run by locals as well by foreigners. “Bubbles”, was the first location, which resembles an Irish Pub and it has been visited mainly by foreigners and experts. I preferred the second location, “Iguana” which was more local and the DJ was also much better.

On Saturday, we had a nice trip to Jinja (about 80 kilometres from Kampala) where obviously the source of the Nile by Speke has been discovered.





We had lunch in a restaurant, called “Haven” which is managed by Germans. The view over the Nile and its waterfalls was impressive. Even the "watchdog" enjoyed the view!






After lunch we had some relaxing hours nearby Nile, enjoying the quietness… enjoying life!
On the way we passed by various small villages without safe water connection and electricity… most of the children moving around without (adequate) cloths, having bloated bellies…
It is unbelievable that people suffer from hunger while the country is mainly so fertile… what’s wrong with this planet?

In Uganda there are not too many sights to explore. On Sunday we have visited the Buganda Kingdom – Kasubi Tombs which are located in the original palace build by Mutesa I.





A very nice and well-educated guide led us through this place explaining the history of the last four kings of Buganda. (Behind the curtains / the pictures of the kings, the tombs are apparently are situated)



Afterwards we travelled through the city by car, exploring on of the local markets, Owino. Noticeable, are the mosques which have been more present for me as the churches, although just about fifteen percent of the Ugandans are Muslims. One of the mosques has even been financed by Gaddafi.
In the evening we have been invited for dinner by some colleagues. I spent a very nice evening, celebrating my birthday, having good food and Austrian wine, as well as, nice conservations.

Thank you for such a good start in Uganda!!!